This coffee comes from the Kelenso Mokanisa cooperative, which is located in the district of Bule Hora. The cooperative comprises 1551 members of whom 1464 are men and 47 are women. All together they produce about 2,300 tons of coffee per year.
After the cherries are picked, they are pulped immediately. Subsequently, the seeds are fermented in water for a number of hours (depending on type of coffee, region, temperature) to remove the mucilage layer of the beans. This process needs to have careful attention as when the process is followed incorrectly, unfavorable cup characteristics will develop. Once fermentation has completed, the coffee is directed through long troughs, where the coffee is ‘washed’ to separate defected beans and foreign matter.
The coffee is then placed on drying beds. With careful attention, the beans are turned every few hours to insure even drying.
Welcome to my Table, here in the corner of this cafe. Today we’re sipping a cup of Ethiopia Kelenso Mokanisa, from Tony’s Coffee in Bellingham, Washington. Feel free to pull up a chair.
the basics:
region: Bule Hora, Sidamo, Ethiopia
farm: N/A
producer: smallholder farmers
association: Kelenso Mokanisa Cooperative
elevation: 1825 meters above sea level
cultivars: Ethiopia Heirloom
process: fully washed, raised bed dried
certifications: Organic, Fair Trade
the coffee:
The aroma of the Kelenso Mokanisa is filled with flowers, honey, citrus, and green tea.
Diving into the first few sips of this coffee and my palate is immediately greeted by a cavalcade of really unique, complex flavors. A coating of honey and soily earthiness lays itself down on my taste buds while a prickle of pine needles and pistachios show up in the finish.
As it cools off, the profile of the cup becomes silky, savory, herbal, fruity, and tart. Salted caramel and maple syrup introduce lots of flower petals (rose petal and cherry blossoms), winter melon, marionberry, jasmine, and a tart lemon acidity that leaves behind a mildly dry finish.
Full body; syrupy mouthfeel; citrus acidity; dry finish.
the bottom line:
How many times have I said it this year? 2013 has been the year of crazy Ethiopian coffees. One after the other, each Ethiopia I had this year didn’t fail to impress me. So it should come as no surprise that the Ethiopia Kelenso Mokanisa, from Tony’s Coffee, extended the streak even further.
This is a refined and elegant coffee, layered and complex; which is interesting, considering it has such a full-bodied and full-flavored profile.
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Andrew is a husband, father, dog lover, craft beverage enthusiast, content creator, and niche market Internet celebrity. Formerly of A Table in the Corner of the Cafe and The Pulitzer Project and contributor to Barista Magazine and Mental Floss, he’s been writing on the Internet for years.